Remove visors, dome light and any other
hardware such as seat belt assemply. 
DO NOT REMOVE MOLDINGS AROUND HEADLINING OR HEADLINING ITSELF.

Find template packaged with kit and drill holes per instructions.  NOTE: (It is necessary to drill through the cardboard headlining and metal plate located directly behind and above the reveal moldings.  If you are not familiar with the inner roof structure underneath the headlining, you may wish to pry down the moldings on one side for a better view of where you will be drilling).  Seat belts (shown here for clarification purposes) will have been removed at this point.

Install clips with open end pointed toward center of car using screws provided.  Clips must be symmetrically installed (same on both sides).

The bows (metal rods packaged with the headlining conversion kit) must be fitted to each individual car.  Follow these steps to determine exact size to cut each rod.

A.  Insert rod into clip installed on PASSENGER SIDE.

B. Pressing rod firmly against roof, mark with chalk, location where rod overlaps base of open portion of clip on DRIVER'S SIDE. (In order to lose as little headroom as possible, rods must fit as snug as possible against roof of car.)  Note:  adjustment feature of clip.

C.  Remove rods from car and trim with hacksaw at points indicated.

Remove rods from car and insert into pockets sewn on back side of new headlining.  (Front of headlining is indicated.)  If rods tend to get "hung up" as they travel thru the loop, a twisting motion will help.

Hang headlining by inserting each bow into the same series of clips.  As each bow is inserted into the respective clip, the headlining will situate itself, much like the installation of a conventional sewn type headlining.

Expect several inches of excess fabric.  At this point headlining may be trimmed to within 3" of moldings on all sides.  Using a standard headlining tool, begin at center (front or rear) and tuck excess material between the moldings and old headlining.  The friction of the compressed foam-backed material will keep the fabric from pulling out and ensure a tight installation.

Continue tucking under moldings and round sides until completed.  Replace dome light and visors.

JOB IS NOW COMPLETE!

A.  Remove moldings around headlining.

B.  Since the old headlining is not in place to tuck the fabric under, using contact cement, form a tack line around the perimeter of the headlining and proceed with a normal installation similar to a conventional cut and sew headlining.

C.  In some models (such as GM) that use thickly padded headlinings, it is necessary to glue strips of 3/8" to 1/2" padding across the windshield and rear window area to avoid a gap appearing when the moldings are replaced.

IF THE CAR DOESN'T HAVE MOLDINGS FRONT AND REAR, the same procedure can be utilized by forcing excess material around the back side of the existing headlining.  In these cars it is necessary to leave the original headlining intact.

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